FEEDING:

 

Herbivores Fresh hay should constitute the majority of your rabbit’s diet, followed by fresh vegetables and then a plain pellet diet.

 

HAYS: Timothy, orchard grass, botanical hay, brome, oat hay. Alfalfa hay is best left for bunnies under 6 months of age.

 

PELLET: Commercially prepared timothy hay based rabbit diets containing approximately 12-14% protein and at least 18% fiber should be fed. A good quality plain pellet diet is best, as they offer a complete balanced diet. Diets that include seeds and treats may seem nicer for your pet, but many rabbits will only pick out the treats and not eat the pellets. This may result in malnutrition and obesity. Also, seeds can upset the delicate balance of the rabbit’s gastro-intestinal tract, causing gas and discomfort. Corn can cause blockages. Feed ¼ cup to ½ cup. Do not feed alfalfa hay based pellets. These contain too much protein.

 

FRESH FOODS: Healthy, fresh vegetables should also be fed to your rabbit. Broccoli tops, beet greens, carrots and carrot tops, sweet peppers, parsley, and dandelion greens are good choices. Fresh fruits in SMALL quantities can be used as

 

TREATS. Good choices are apples, pears and berries. If you find that your rabbit develops loose stools or diarrhea, you are probably feeding too much fresh food. If the diarrhea persists after reducing fresh food, see your exotic pet veterinarian immediately. BE SURE TO WASH FRESH FRUITS AND VEGETABLES THOROUGHLY BEFORE FEEDING THEM TO YOUR PET!!!

 

** Please Avoid: yogurt drops, honey/nut/seed sticks, chocolate, pasta, breads, crackers, cookies, breakfast cereals, any human grade treats, green beans, corn and citrus.

 

SUPPLEMENTS:

Since you will be feeding your rabbit a balanced diet, supplements are not necessary.

 

WATER:

 

Clean, fresh chlorine-free water must always be available. Change it daily. All water given must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water). We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water; never use untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a de-chlorinating treatment. De-chlorinator is available in the fish department. If you do not want to chemically de-chlorinate the water, you can leave an open container of tap water out for at least 24 hours. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.

 

 

RECOMMENDED SUPPLIES:

• Wire sided cage at least 4’ x 2’ x 2’ for one average sized rabbit; 6’ x 3’ x 3’ for two average sized rabbits.

• Pelleted, timothy based commercial rabbit food & timothy hay, orchard grass, botanical hay or any combination. Alfalfa hay and pellets are only appropriate for rabbits under 6 months of age.

• Several toys - chewable wood and cardboard and bunny-safe plastic.

• Shredded aspen bedding, “Carefresh”, or newspaper for the bottom of the cage. NO PINE OR CEDAR SHAVINGS.

• Hide houses - wooden or cardboard.Heavy ceramic crock food bowl, rabbits will flip or chew a light plastic bowl.

• Water bottle or bowl

• Playpen - for safe out-of-cage playtime.

• Litter box - choose a different substrate for the litter box than what covers the bottom of the cage. DO NOT USE PINE OR CEDAR SHAVINGS IN A LITTER BOX.

 

 

HOUSING & ENVIRONMENT:

 

A wire-sided cage measuring at least 4’ x 2’ x 2’ is a good size cage for one rabbit. Be sure the cage has good ventilation and a solid bottom.

 

GLASS ENCLOSURES SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR RABBITS; they are highly susceptible to heat stroke and glass cages hold in to much heat and humidity for a rabbit. Cages should have a solid bottom, for safety and for ease of cleaning.

 

IT IS NOT TRUE THAT AN ANIMAL WILL ONLY GROW AS LARGE AS ITS ENCLOSURE!!

 

When allowing your rabbit out of cage time, be sure to monitor closely. Do not allow your rabbit to roam the house or a room when he or she is not supervised. Injuries to both the rabbit and/or your house are imminent. Before allowing your rabbit supervised play time, scan the room for power cords, sharp objects, items that your rabbit can easily pick up and eat, and other items that may be a danger to your pet.

 

HIDE HOUSE: The hide house is extremely important to the rabbit. Rabbits can be very shy creatures with a strong flight instinct; they are prey animals. It is very important to supply them with a protected place to hide.

 

WATER BOTTLE: A full water bottle must be available at all times, refill it daily. Be sure to clean out the inside of the bottle thoroughly during the more intensive cage cleaning sessions every week. Water bottles will often become slimy inside, which will in turn harbor harmful bacteria. Clean the bottle thoroughly with a mild bleach solution (1 bleach:32 water). Be sure to rinse the bottle extremely well after the cleaning to ensure no bleach is left behind! Your pet will most likely chew a bottle inside the cage, so be sure to attach the bottle to the OUTSIDE of the cage. Check the straw daily for any blockages to make sure your pet always has access to the fresh water. If you cannot place the bottle on the outside of the cage, purchase a metal water bottle guard. This will keep him or her from getting to the bottle.

 

BEDDING: We recommend an aspen bedding or soft recycled newspaper bedding such as “Carefresh”. Neither of these choices will cause allergic reactions or respiratory distress and it is easy to clean. DO NOT use cedar chips, as they contain dangerous phenols, which are toxic to your pet. Place enough bedding in the cage so your pet can happily tunnel underneath it. Spot clean your pet’s cage daily by simply removing the soiled portions of bedding.

 

TOYS: Several types of toys should be available for your rabbit. Chewing toys such as wooden small mammal toys (available at the pet store), hide houses, cardboard boxes, paper towel tubes and dried untreated fruit tree branches are all excellent toys for your pig. Rabbits MUST chew constantly in order to wear their teeth down, which grow on a continual basis. Therefore, toys that allow the rabbit to chew are invaluable. Stick to toys bought at the pet store, as these are generally made of pet-safe materials. Pesticide-free, dried fruit tree braches, such as pear and apple, can be offered, but be absolutely sure they are pesticide free. Also, wash them well with water and friction before offering them to your pet.

 

 

HABITAT MAINTENANCE:

 

Daily maintenance should consist of spot cleaning by removing soiled substrate, cleaning water bowl and litter box thoroughly and wiping glass clean.

The entire cage should be cleaned thoroughly at least once every week with:

• A mild dishwashing liquid in warm water (make a weak dilution) THEN

• Vinegar & water (1:8) OR bleach and warm water (1:32)

• Cage “furniture” should also be scrubbed clean with the same dilution.

• RINSE OFF ALL SOAP AND BLEACH THOROUGHLY WITH PLAIN WATER BEFORE RE-INTRODUCING YOUR PET TO ITS ENCLOSURE!!

• NEVER MIX VINEGAR AND BLEACH - IT CREATES A TOXIC SOLUTION

 

 

GROOMING & HYGIENE:

 

It is not necessary to clean or bathe your rabbit. They are extremely neat and will groom themselves! If it seems as if your rabbit has not been grooming him or herself, he may be ill. Contact your exotic pet veterinarian. Regular brushing, especially during shedding, is essential, as rabbits cannot vomit up excess hair ingested while grooming.

 

 

SIGNS OF A HEALTHY ANIMAL:

 

Healthy rabbits have a rounded, full body and smooth, even fur with no bald patches. The nostrils, rump area, under-chin area, ears and eyes should be clear and free of discharge - fur should not be damp or stained in any way. Your pet should have bright eyes; teeth should be even and well aligned with no staining around the chin; breathing should be even and not labored, with no wheezing or gurgling sounds. Healthy rabbits are energetic and alert.